Outdoor Furniture, Outdoor Patio and Outdoor Gardens

Frequently Asked Questions

1. QUESTION:
   Learning to clip my lovely cob....?
   Ok so im pretty familiar with certain bits as he's a cob however ive never clipped a horses actual coat.
   Ive never had to however he's a big lad and has now got an extremely thick coat which he is struggling with!
   Stood in the barn this morning he had sweat where his headcollar was and on his nose just bcos of a bit of sun.
   He will be rugged up when necessary after he's clipped and has all different weights of indoor/outdoor rugs.
   Just wondered any tips on keeping in a straight line? or which would be easiest to start with? He's an absolute gem with the clipper so atleast i don't have an impatient customer!

   • ANSWER:
     Decide on what clip you want. If he is in a lot of work then a full clip is best providing he is in at night. If not I would say a trace clip or a blanket clip.

     1. Make sure that you have sharp blades and that the tension is correctly adjusted.
     2. Keep the clippers well oiled throughout the clipping session. No only oil through the hole but also along the blades. Wipe the surplus oil off with a cloth before putting them on the horse again.
     3. Always clip against the hair.

     If you are going for a trace or blanket clip stand back and see how high you want it. Now, I can get a good line from eye because I have done so many over the years but, if you are new to it and your horse is good to do then cheat! Get some bailer twine and put it around his body from his chest to his backside and tie it. Get the string level to the line you want. Turn your clippers on the side so that the flat of the blades is against the string and follow the string around each side.
     You then have a nice sharp straight line.
     For the leg lines, on the fronts keep the width of the clippers below the muscle at the top of the forearm, so you are just below the point of the elbow up to the top of the forearm. On the inside of the fronts I run a straight line from the cut of the elbow to the front of the leg and then join that line to the top one. You can get the folds of skin clean by having someone hold his leg forward.
     The hind line - hold your thumb about two inches above the hock and span your hand upwards, that is your first cut. Follow an imaginary line to the indentation of the stifle.
     For a blanket clip, put a finger on the lower wither and from your line go straight up. You can round off the corners when you finish.
     For a trace, have his neck straight and decide how high you want the line, from the shoulders. You can then have his head turned slightly way so it is tight and run the blades from A to B.

     If you are taking all his neck off do not clip to close to the mane, instead of trying to clip the hair down from the mane, hold the mane to one side and run the blades up so you are melding the hair into the crest. You will not loose any mane that way.

     Under his throat can be tricky as the hair goes all ways! Just keep working against the hair.
     If he has indentations above his eye put gentle pressure on the eye ball (with the eyelid closed) and this will press the indentation out.

     If you are doing a saddle patch put the saddle on - or the numnah, and turn the blades on their sides so you get a sharp edge. If he has a thick coat I usually take the saddle area off first clip and leave it for the second, the hair dries easier.

     For the top of the tail, do an upside down triangle. so that there is some long hair left in the triangle.

     Keep the blades flat, work with long smooth cuts but do not over push the clippers.

     After you will know the meaning of why a hair shirt was a form of punishment!

2. QUESTION:
   Indoor/outdoor cat started using bathroom inside?
   I have had 2 females cat for a long time and TO MY KNOWLEDGE they have always went to the bathroom outside. Recently I was finding wet spots on my carpet and realized it was urine. I blamed it on the dog until I actually caught one of the cats in the act. I took care of the smell and even laid down a plastic liner. I made extra efforts to put the cats outside but they wouldn't go to the bathroom. The next day I caught the other cat pooping right on the tile and then scratching the wall after. The same day I caught the second cat peeing on a rug.

   Is bringing a litter box back in my home the only option? I'm wondering if they don't want to go out becuase of the winter? Has anyone had experince with putting a littler box outside?

   Also -- I'm not interested in hearing from anyone who tells me that my cats should not go outside. They've been going outside their whole life (4 years).

   • ANSWER:

3. QUESTION:
   What are the steps and options to carpeting a garage floor?
   I have a garage I'm turning into a game / rec room and want to put carpeting on the cement. What steps are needed to do that and do you suggest like a marine, indoor/outdoor, or like a big throw rug? THX!
   edit: Also does it need to be chemical / flame resistant, and do I have to worry about dust & dampness?

   • ANSWER:
     industrial style carpet, its big squares of carpet u lay down piece by piece *usually like 2 foot by 2 foot* it has the apperance of regular carpet but without all the trouble of laying carpet, u just get this stuff and lay it no padding etc under it and can be removed and cleaned easily

4. QUESTION:
   Question about flooring price?
   Is 2.49/ square foot a good deal for gym flooring? http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100594264&N=10000003+90401+525150

   Or can I find something better? I want to find that indoor/outdoor rug thats green and plasticy but i can't find it anywhere. Any help?

   • ANSWER:
     If you want a good durable floor , and considering the benefits you ll get from this type of surface, I d say it s not a bad price at all. GL

5. QUESTION:
   Why is my cat peeing in the bathroom?
   My cat has alwas been a indoor/outdoor cat. They can pee outside and in the litter box. Why all of a sudden are they peeing in the bathroom on the rugs? I would really like some advice or answers.

   • ANSWER:
     are there any boys/men using your toliet and missing? i have noticed this in the past with an old cat of mine... if there was the scent of urine they would pee on the mat...
     if not i dont know why they would... but throw out the mats, if they pee on something and go back to smell their pee they will continue to use it as a place to pee.

6. QUESTION:
   spayed cat peeing in front of my fridge?
   We have a spayed female cat that keeps peeing on the rug in front of my fridge. She is an indoor/outdoor cat. I have washed the rug in vineger and water and the tile underneath too, but she still keeps peeing in that same spot. Any suggestions?

   • ANSWER:
     The first thing you need to do is have her checked for a Urinary Tract Infection, as this behavior is often symptomatic of such things. If she is given a clean bill of health then here is what you need to do:
     We have 8 cats. 6 Were trapped feral and tamed inside. NONE of them have improper litter problems because we have followed the advice that I am passing along to you. At the bottom of this posting you will find a book reference. It is the best I've seen on handling kitty problems.
     First of all, where are you putting the cat's food and water?
     The first rule of kitty elimination is that cats hate to eat where they "go" and they hate to "go" where they eat. If you have the food and water next to the litter box, you have committed the most common mistake that cat owners commit, which is the single biggest cause of kittys going elsewhere. A kitty would rather risk going somewhere else than risk contaminating their food, so your best bet is to move the food and water either to the opposite side of the room from the litter box, or, even better, to a different room altogether from the litter box. Then make sure you have at least 2 - 3 inches of litter in that litter box and that you keep it scooped and clean. Kittys also hate not enough litter, and they hate dirty toilets. You wouldn't like going in a dirty, smelly toilet. Neither do they.
     Your next step is to get a cleaner that has a chemical in it that breaks down the enzyme that causes an odor from the feces and urine that you may not be able to smell - but your cat can - and clean the spot where kitty has been "doing it" with it thoroughly. Such a cleaner is available at most pet stores, and will help the kitty not to be attracted to that spot. Petco and Pet Smart have "Out" odor remover and "Nature's Miracle". I haven't tried Nature's Miracle but have heard a lot about it. You might ask the employees for their recommendation.
     Then remember the first rule of kitty elimination again: Cats hate to eat where they "go" and hate to "go" where they eat. Your kitty needs to be reprogrammed with positive reinforcement for proper elimination behavior. You do this by getting small bowls of food and putting them on top of any and all spots where your kitty has been "going" (as long as those spots are NOT by the litter box!). In this case you should keep those bowls consistently filled with a dry "kibble" cat food for the next few weeks. This will communicate to the kitty that this is a happy, secure place (which cats associate with food) and not a place for improper elimination. (This may seem messy and inconvenient, but it works!!!) After a few weeks, you should be able to remove the bowls and the kitty will may longer be attracted to those spots for improper elimination.
     Keep in mind that these tricks WILL NOT WORK if you have not made sure that the food and water is far away from the litter in the first place.
     We have 8 cats, have had up to 11 - at ages all the way up to 19 years old, all are indoor kittys, and this method has worked like a charm. All respect litter box rules.
     One last note: Kittys seldom respond to punishment. They are unable to associate punishment with behavior - especially if it is after the fact. They do, however, respond to positive reinforcement.

7. QUESTION:
   My outdoor cat is now an indoor cat because we moved to a condo. he's bored and angry, and peeing everywhere.?
   We moved from a townhouse where he could go outside and catch mice, climb trees, etc. We now live in a condo with only a balcony. he does climb up onto the roof and run around up there, but it isn't at all the same. he's bored and angry too. he started peeing on rugs and pooping in the bathtub. we had to roll up the rugs and mats and put them away, and keep the bathroom door closed. this morning he peed on the carpet and he also peed on my purse that was on the floor. he does have a litter box that is easily accessible that he uses sometimes and we praise him when he does use it. my mom wants to get rid of him because we cant be living in a house where we have to keep doors closed and rugs rolled up all the time, we can't live like that, the only other option is to give him away but i don't want to do that. he's obviously royally ticked off and i don't know how to make him stop peeing everywhere and start using his litter box full time. my mom is picking up some cat toys today to maybe cheer him up and give him something to do. but if that doesn't help, we have to give him away. i've had him since he was a kitten and he's never had this problem before, he's always been a good cat, and i really don't want to get rid of him.

   • ANSWER:
     he may not be angry, but very very upset. his home is gone and he doesn't know where he is. he is stressed out and it sounds like he is trying to territory mark. he is not sure about this new place so he is trying to scent mark to make himself feel better. i second the idea of Feliway. it is a synthetic spray that mimics the cat's natural "safety" pheromone. when a cat feels something is safe, he marks it with his face, which will release the pheromone onto the object. that is how he marks what he feels is his territory. Feliway has a diffuser you can plug in or a spray. when used the cat starts to calm down and feel the new home is "safe".
     as to the scent marking, and defecation, that will stop as he calms down. the idea of keeping him in a single room is great - it not only will be easier to clean, but it will allow him to acclimatize slowly, at his own pace. the bigger the house, them more he will feel unsafe. let him out a few times a day to sniff around, then put him back in his room. go in and read a book or just sit for a while, and he will see how calm and safe you feel. extend the "out" times a little more every few days, until he can roam the house all the time. i have done this with many panicky rescues and it works.
     good luck!

8. QUESTION:
   My cat _male 7 years old- who is other wise WONDERFUL pees in various places in my house?
   He is an indoor/outdoor cat only he doesn't like his litter box and he doesn't like inclimate weather so he just goes wherever he feels like it. Laundry baskets, Rugs, Toyboxes, ETC. I love him but this has got to stop! It is not medical as the only time he pees in the house is when the weather outside is too wet/cold etc. What do I do short of getting rid of him?

   • ANSWER:
     Is he neutered? have you had him to a vet? I would recommend getting him checked out. it could be something medically wrong that can be treated. If all turns up normally I would recommend "retraining him". Putting him in a small room with his litter box, food, water until he begins to use the litter box again. I would also try using a litter called CAT ATTRACT. It has a phermone in it that makes cats want to use it.

9. QUESTION:
   putting a rug down in basement?
   i have about a 1000 square foot basement, all open space no rooms, i have a old indoor outdoor carpet down there now glued down to the cement under it.. i want a new one, are they easy to rip up or can i just lay a new one over it, and how much would a 1000 square foot indoor outdoor carpet cost.. thank you

   • ANSWER:
     Ok- for starters- I would never put one carpet over another. Pull it up and either put laminate/wood down or new carpet.

     Go here www.builddirect.com

     They really have awesome pricing.

10. QUESTION:
    Rug Choices that clean up well?
    With a one year old and the hope of kids in the future, I want a rug that will hold up well, but look and feel nice. Indoor/Outdoor carpets are nice, but will they feel nice walking/crawling on? WIll they make my living room look trashy? Any suggestions? This will be a living room rug and my sofa is a medium/dark blue. Thanks for your time!

    • ANSWER:

11. QUESTION:
    can I use carpet tape.........?
    I have nice indoor/outdoor carpet in my living room & I recently bought a huge oriental rug to put on top....the oriental rug seems to be bunching up in a few places...can I put carpet tape underneath? or will it ruin my good carpet on the bottom when I go to pull it up?

    • ANSWER:
      Unfortunaty there's not much out there that is completely fool proof.

      I had a large area rug that I put over berber carpet using carpet tape. It left a very noticable residue on the carpet that even steam cleaning didn't get out (although a proffesional job probably would).

      I also tryed the rubberized underpadding, unfortunatly, it's in a high traffic area and the underpadding actually makes it worse!

12. QUESTION:
    Why does my cat pee on the bathroom rug?
    He's 14 and has been doing this for a little over a year. He's an indoor/outdoor cat meaning he comes in and out as he pleases. I have two other cats and a dog. We just got the kitten a couple of months ago but he's been peeing on the rug before we even thought of adding a new addiction to the family. He's healthy and acting normal so I have no idea why he does this. We even have a litterbox a few feet from the bathroom if he has to go inside but he uses the rug and only pees on the bathroom rugs. I even replaced the rug and he still decided it was a nice place to pee. I just don't know what his problem is. Can anyone please help?

    • ANSWER:
      Unfortunately cats that adapt themselves to the outdoors will look for things that look or feel like grassy areas, or dirt... I would try and not keep the rug there for while. Try one week and then replace it down again. Or you could try tricking him, put a towel in place of the rug. If he doesnt pee on it, then surely the rugs remind him of something outside. As when he is outside the whole world is his litterbox... k?

      And good luck!

13. QUESTION:
    spayed female cat peeing on throw rug? Help!!?
    We have an indoor-outdoor spayed female cat. She does not have a litter box, because she is house trained, and she uses the doggie door to let herself in and out whenever she wants. I have a rug in front of my fridge that she is peeing on at night only. I have to wash the rugs almost daily. I have washed them in vinegar and also used the pet enzyme spray OUT. I am going to take her to the vet, but, it seems if she had a problem, it would be all the time, not just at night, and again, she comes and goes as she pleases thru the doggie door 24/7.

    • ANSWER:
      Here are a few suggestions to your litter box problems:
      - Provide a box for each cat
      - Change litter daily
      - Provide constant access to a box
      - Go back to previously used brand of litter and/or
      - Discontinue new disinfectant
      - Move box to where it was previously used
      - Eliminate new or frightening noise near litter box
      - Move food and water away from litter box
      - If cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day
      - If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there
      - Experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer sandy litter)
      - Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it
      - Keep in mind that some cats are rather picky, and prefer to have two separate boxes (one to pee in and one to poop in)

      Problems arise when your cat doesn't like or develops an aversion to the litter box that you have provided. Let's be fair here. There is absolutely no reason to expect every cat to like the same material, or even for one cat to prefer the same material over an entire life span. First lesson learned: You did not train your cat to use a litter box. At best, you offered the cat something recognizable as litter material. If your cat is having litter box problems then you will need to figure out how to make the litter box appealing to the cat. Here are a few options:

      1) Pain or illness can cause a cat to stop using the litter box. Cats are very adept at hiding illness, so if your cat is having litter box problems then the first thing you need to do is take the cat to a vet for a medical exam.
      2) If you aren't scooping the waste out of the litter every day then you need to start and start now.
      3) Perfumes or other odors can drive your cat away from the litter box. Scented litters are unacceptable to many cats, and the leftover scent from a cleaning product could also be a problem. Get rid of the perfumes, and scrub those cleaners away before giving the box back to the cat. Remember that cats have an acute sense of smell.
      4) Your cat may feel vulnerable when in the litter box. Is it in a noisy location (such as next to the washing machine)? Is it secure from little marauders like dogs and children, or even other cats? If the box is not semi-private, move it to a better location.
      5) Remember those preferences that we talked about earlier. You may need to offer several different types of litter before finding the right one. Strange but true, some cats will not use the same box for urine and feces, in which case you'll have to provide two boxes. The type of box could also be a problem. If the box has a cover, try removing it.
      6) Anxiety can lead to litter box lapses. Did some event scare your cat? This could be anything from a new couch to a new cat or even a new person in the house. If you suspect anxiety, confine the cat to a safe and secure place (maybe a bed room) until the anxiety has passed. Cats seem to hang on to their emotions, so the anxiety could last much longer than the actual event. No need to rush, leave that safe haven available to the cat for as long as possible.
      7) If you have multiple cats, chances are you'll need multiple boxes, maybe even with different materials in them.
      There is one more important distinction that you'll need to make. Is the cat refusing to use the litter box, or is the cat spraying? Spraying is a territorial behavior and has nothing to do with disliking the box. For more information on litter box problems or spraying, consult with a trained behaviorist.

      Correcting the Problem
      The key to solving elimination problems is to make the litter box more attractive, and the area where the cat is soiling instead, unattractive. Sometimes, just cleaning the litter box more frequently or changing its location will correct the problem. Other times, you may need to experiment with different combinations of location and kitty litter to find a solution. You may even want to offer your cat the choice of several different boxes, each with different kinds of litter, to see which he or she prefers. At the same time, you must break the cat's habit of soiling in the new location. Be sure to clean the soiled area thoroughly with a pet odor remover to get rid of any urine scent -- or your cat may be attracted back to the same spot. It's important to keep the cat away from the area. Try covering the spot with carpet runner, prickly side up, or use a device that delivers a harmless static shock or that produces a loud noise when the cat comes near, to help redirect kitty to his litter box. Adding a room deodorizer with a scent the cat finds offensive - such as a strong citrus or floral - can also keep the cat away from the area.

      When to See the Vet
      If your cat continues to eliminate outside of the litter box, a trip to the vet is in order to check for health problems. No behavior techniques will help a cat with a problem that requires the attention of a veterinarian.
      Urinary tract infections are a common cause of litter box problems, which your pet's doctor can diagnose and treat. A urinalysis can also rule out diabetes. Other conditions that may affect elimination behavior include arthritis - which makes is painful to climb in and out of the box - and constipation.

      Odor removing tips:
      To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you don’t like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas I’ve found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area.
      What Won’t Work… There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humans’ noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. However; you will need more to remove the odor for your cat’s nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application. (Nature’s Miracle is one of them.) The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation.
      Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks for them to completely eliminate an odor. Enzymantic Cleaners are available at most pet stores, organic/natural/health food stores, and even some hardware stores. You can also ask your vet for suppliers.

14. QUESTION:
    How have you dealt with flea problems?
    We've had one indoor/outdoor cat for 5 years and an indoor only cat for 4. We have never had much of a problem with fleas, even when skipping months of frontline here and there. I don't know if it's because of the particulary dry weather this summer, but we've been using frontline. I can still see fleas on the indoor cat. He will not let me bathe him. Our house isn't carpeted, but there are some rugs. I'm wary about using bombs or anything that could get into my fish tanks (two). Personal experiences with stuff that works would be helpful.

    • ANSWER:
      I was given a chair that was infested with fleas... I have 3 cats... so you know what happened!
      here is what I did and it worked like a charm... within one month there wasn't a flea in sight / or bite. that is why I recommend this to everyone who asks about fleas on this site.

      ********************************
      I have a NATURAL remedy for getting rid of fleas in your house.
      Go to the Store and buy some 20 Mule Team BORAX. (you find it in the soap isle)
      Then sprinkle it all over. Carpets, couch, bedding, pillows, PET BEDs, car, even wood floors. (NOT ON YOUR PET!)

      THEN VACCUME IT UP.

      What Boax does is coats the eggs ... The eggs hatch deformed or unable to reproduce.
      You will have to do this 2 or 3x about a week apart in order to get all the egg cycles.

      FOR YOUR PET. Use the topical flea killer that is on the market or wash with Dawn dish washing soap (make sure to rinse all soap out) and use a flea comb (this is also a head lice comb) especially for kittens or puppies who are too young to have insecticide put on them.
      Kill the fleas that you find on the comb with soap or alcohol

15. QUESTION:
    Advice on getting rid of fleas on a cat.?
    My cat has had fleas for about a month or two. I have given her flea treatments (frontline) and bathed in her with flea shampoo. Also, she hasn't been outside for several months. She was an indoor/outdoor cat, know she is just indoor. We don't have carpet and I have used flea powder on the rugs and couches. I washed all blankets, and vacuumed after using flea powder. They appeared to have been gone, but now she has them again. The garage is connected to the house, and their is a pet door for her to able to go in the garage. Their is a small sliver between the garage bay door and outside, is it possible for the fleas to come in that way? Any advice on getting rid of them.
    I gave her a bath and then frontline. I also only use the treatment once a month like recommended. I am not getting biten, but I do see them on her.

    • ANSWER:
      Persist with using either Frontline or Advantage on your cat monthly. These are the best controls for removing fleas and you'll find that the problem will sort itself out.

      But don't bathe the cat!! By doing this you're washing off the Frontline so the cat then has no ongoing protection against fleas. Frontline is expensive and there's no point in using it if it's going to be washed off. It's not necessary to bathe a cat anyway.

      EDIT : Please DO NOT follow the advice given in a later post by 'Kiko'. Never apply chemicals such as hydrogen peroxide and borax to an animal unless it's recommended by a vet - and that's highly unlikely. Using these chemicals will leave both you and your cat with problems much worse than fleas!

16. QUESTION:
    My 13 year old female cat has developed the problem of defecating outside of her box. What should I do?
    I am and have been an animal lover all of my life; raised on a farm and have a strong attachment to all animals. My 13 year old female cat, Nala, has developed the problem of defecating outside of her box. She was adopted from Denver Dumb Friends League in 1996 as a kitten and for several months we battled a raging giardia infection which has not been a problem since. Over the past year I have tried everything from confinement to one room of the house to keeping a constantly clean litter box near her at all times to special litter—most recently 'Cat Attract' litter along with their instructions. Nothing is working. She has been an indoor/outdoor cat all of her life with me because of the dog door for our dogs. She stays inside almost all of the time. She previously used the great outdoors exclusively until she started spending more (most) of her time indoors. She has no special space outside of the box where she especially likes to defecate; she goes anywhere she is...furniture, rugs, table tops even inches away from a new litter box with the Cat Attract litter. She seems not to care about what most cats seem to: covering her feces. She does urinate inside the box, but for a month or so a while back, had a spot on the living room carpet that she urinated in. She stopped this behavior with confinement to another room of the house.

    The cat is loved. She is skittish and pretty much always has been, but purrs and loves very loudly when her family is sitting around. We need help. I do not want to euthanize my cat, but we can no longer live this way.

    My questions:
    •Is she too old to change this behavior?
    •Is she too old to be sheltered at this time in her life?
    •Is she better off being euthanized than trying shelter life?
    •Is there another alternative?

    I sit here heartbroken. For the health and safety to humans and other animals... not to mention all that goes with constantly cleaning up after a constantly incontinent cat, I just can't do it anymore. We've given it more than a year of our lives. Any advice would be dearly appreciated.

    • ANSWER:
      It may be painful for her to even climb in the litter box or she just doesn't get to it in time. Try cutting out one side of it so she doesn't have to step over an edge. She's quite old - liken her to an elderly person who is incontinent. Same thing.

      Best thing for her at this point might be to euthanize her as much as it sucks. She's only going to keep deteriorating.

17. QUESTION:
    My cat won't use her litter box. What can I do?
    This cat is somewhere between 11 and 14 years old. She has always been an indoor/outdoor animal. Trained to the box those many years ago. For most of her life, she has lived with other animals.

    We moved into a new apartment 2 1/2 years ago, and started out just fine, using her box. I don't know if it's important to note that she has no animal housemates. But she hasn't used it now in almost a year. For a long time, I figured she was just going outside. Then she only wanted to go out every few days.

    The litter in her box is clean. Her litter box was even completely cleaned before that last batch was put in. I considered everything okay, even when she started peeing in the bathtub. At least there is cleaned easily. But the past week has been hell. Peeing on the kitchen floor - 5 feet from her litter box. Peeing on the bathroom rugs. Peeing on my purse!

    Really, what can I do? New litter box? Any ideas? PLEASE! I don't want to relegate her to the laundry room and outside

    • ANSWER:
      She probably has a urinary track problem and you should take her to the vet. She is old, and these things happen. My cat did this too at this age. In the meantime, maybe try getting another litter box for her, maybe she just doesn't like her old one anymore. Good luck.

18. QUESTION:
    Is it so wrong that my golden retriever is an outdoor dog?
    I have two dogs, a small indoor dog who is 3 years old and a loyal old golden retriever who is 11. My small dog sleeps inside and my outdoor dog sleeps in the garage all curled up on the rug shivering in the winter. I brought her inside today and gave her a bath for the first time in a while and i decided I would let her sleep inside durning to the night. I went into my room and came out a little later to check on her and I figured she would be on the floor but instead she was on the couch all warm and comfortable for once and I felt absolutley terriable. Now she naturally is a big smelly dog so that's why she cant sleep inside everynight. She would shed all over everything (my small puppy doesn't shed) and leave a smell everywhere. The smell doesn't go away no matter how much you bath her. It's just the way she is.
    so what should I do.
    by the way i should add that i am only 13 and this is the family dog

    • ANSWER:
      Throw a sheet over the couch and let the old lady be comfortable!! It's winter!!

      She should not be smelly if you just bathed her; brush her every day and keep her out of the dirty garage, and she won't be smelly or shed much in the house. Personally, I 'd rather brush and vacuum than consign a faithful old dog like that to a freezing garage. If she's shivering out there, the shelter is inadequate and could get your parents cited for animal cruelty. That doesn't look good on anyone's resume.

      If she still smells bad, she needs a trip to the veterinarian to find out why.

19. QUESTION:
    Are both these rugs okay for my new t.b ?
    I already have them from my ish mare I recently sold - they fit him - it's just are they warm enough ?

    this is the outdoor one.
    http://www.essentiallyequestrian.ie/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=664

    this is the indoor one.
    http://www.essentiallyequestrian.ie/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=1162

    He is clipped - blanket clip - he'll really only be out for 3 hours or so a day ?

    • ANSWER:

20. QUESTION:
    HORSE OWNERS, PLEASE HELP ME?
    So, im 13 and i have been riding for 3 years.
    Basically, my parents are ready for me to have my own horse. Obviously im delighted, but i want to make sure im ready and able to care for him.
    This is where you come in, i want you to give me your opinion wether you think im ready:

    Equipment for me:
    Riding Hat.
    Body protector.
    Jodhpurs.
    Sensible footwear.
    Whip.
    show gear.

    Equipment for the horse:
    Grooming kit.
    Travel gear.
    Headcollor and leadrope.
    Haynet.
    First aid kit.

    Rugs and tack i will be getting after the purchase.

    I will keep him on DIY livery at my riding school, where i can reach by cycle on the country roads.
    The facilities include:
    Indoor school.
    Outdoor school.
    Hacking trails.
    Horse walker.
    5 * livery accomodation.
    Automatic drinker optional. (you can opt to use that or choose to monitor the horse intake)
    Space for rugs and tack.

    I can -
    Walk.
    Trot.
    Canter.
    Gallop.
    Jump.
    Hack out alone/ in company.

    I got all the equipment for the horse and anything else i might need for my birthday 2 days ago, i have enough time to care for him, if i didnt i would choose not to have one, its simply not fair on the horse.
    Moneys fine, my parents both have stable, well paying jobs and they said that they will pay.

    Before you leave, please can you give me your daily routine and times that your day with your horse conists off?
    And weather you think im ready for horse owning.

    Thanksss (:

    • ANSWER:
      My horse's day goes like this: Wake up, gets fed, hangs out and eats grass in the pasture, gets ridden, hangs out, gets fed again, goes to sleep. Eventful, huh? I would say you ARE ready for a horse because you are so concerned that you might not be. Make sense? You have the necessary equipment. However, you need to read up. You need to 1. Figure out what you will be feeding your horse 2.Read up on what type of horse you want/need 3. DO NOT just settle for the first horse you go to visit; visit several and then pick your favorite 4. familiarize yourself with the parts of the horse and tack, safety, nutrition, etc. 5. Make sure you're ready for the commitment: stall mucking, grooming, passing up the movies to care for and excercise your horse, etc. Too many times kids deide they have better things to do after they have already made an investment into horses.

21. QUESTION:
    Horse owners, please help me?
    So, im 13 and i have been riding for 3 years.
    Basically, my parents are ready for me to have my own horse. Obviously im delighted, but i want to make sure im ready and able to care for him.
    This is where you come in, i want you to give me your opinion wether you think im ready:

    Equipment for me:
    Riding Hat.
    Body protector.
    Jodhpurs.
    Sensible footwear.
    Whip.
    show gear.

    Equipment for the horse:
    Grooming kit.
    Travel gear.
    Headcollor and leadrope.
    Haynet.
    First aid kit.

    Rugs and tack i will be getting after the purchase.

    I will keep him on DIY livery at my riding school, where i can reach by cycle on the country roads.
    The facilities include:
    Indoor school.
    Outdoor school.
    Hacking trails.
    Horse walker.
    5 * livery accomodation.
    Automatic drinker optional. (you can opt to use that or choose to monitor the horse intake)
    Space for rugs and tack.

    I can -
    Walk.
    Trot.
    Canter.
    Gallop.
    Jump.
    Hack out alone/ in company.

    I got all the equipment for the horse and anything else i might need for my birthday 2 days ago, i have enough time to care for him, if i didnt i would choose not to have one, its simply not fair on the horse.
    Moneys fine, my parents both have stable, well paying jobs and they said that they will pay.

    Before you leave, please can you give me your daily routine and times that your day with your horse conists off?
    And weather you think im ready for horse owning.

    Thanksss (:

    • ANSWER:
      well it seems tht u r as redy as u could ever be. i think ur horse will enjoy ur area. 5* is good. my day with my horses is tht i try to ride at least a half an hour every day at least. and i groom er every day give her fresh water every day and i clean her tack and my equiptment when it is nessasary or once a week. i usually have her get her hooves cleaned and trimmed once a month.. i hope tis elped and have fun with ur horse

22. QUESTION:
    6 year old neutered male keeps peeing on the carpet?
    Ok my boyfreind has a 6 year old neutered male cat and for some reason he has an attraction to plush carpets. A few years back we changed the carpet in his apartment from an indoor/outdoor to a more plush carpet and his cat kept going to the bathroom on it.

    We cleaned it then with Natures Miricle but his care was even more attracted to that and peed ALL over where ever the nature miricle touched. This was such a large pee stain (almost the length of my height and the width of a small child) that we had to tear it up and leave the wood floor down.

    one time he peed on my puff down winter coat.

    Then recently I moved in and we put down a throw rug which was almost as evenly plush and he peed all over that too. So that went into the trash.

    Then this morning when I was in the shower my boyfriend left the bathroom door open after brushing his teeth and his cat peed on the brand new Plush bathmat. Diferent fibers from the other carpets but just as soft.

    He doesnt pee on the old indoor/outdoor carpet that is still in the bedroom or hallway, not on the bed, not on the tile, and not on the wood floor.

    We dont know what is causing this behavior but I need it to stop. It is driving me bonkers. I can't do anything nice to the apartment. I have only had to deal with my good cat NEVER using the house as a toilet ...except when he was angry at me he would potto in the tub which he believed was his luxury litter box, but thats easily taken care of!

    What can I do to make him stop? We have tried catching him and scolding him and the whole spray bottle technique.

    Please tell me someone knows where this behavior is comming from.

    Could it be the texture under his paws??? It cant be the scent because the first carpet came from one place, the other came from biglots, the coat was mine and smelled like me and he doesnt potty on anything else of mine ever, and the bath mat came from bed bath and beyond... so they all have diferent scents.

    Please help me!

    Hes been peeing on carpets since He lived at his dads, then still when he moved, and still now since I moved in

    • ANSWER:
      First of all. Did he start peeing on everything when you met our BF? If so, maybe its you. Seriously. Some cats pick one "parent" over all others.

      The other thing is it could be the carpet fibers. You need to grab the cat and rub its nose in its own pee once in a while and "punish" it to let it know you don't want it peeing on the rugs.

      They know what the litter box is for (I assume you have one).

23. QUESTION:
    My male cat won't move?
    This morning, as I was getting ready for school one of my cats was laying in the middle of my room, but not how cats usually lay when they're relaxing. I picked him up, shut my door, and set him in the hallway, not thinking anything of it. I got home from school today and he is laying the same way on the rug by the door and my mom told me he hasn't moved all day. He will slightly move his head if the door opens and such. We have water by him, but he is usually a very active cat. We have 3 and they are all indoor/outdoor, mostly outdoor. My mom said she's going to wait and call the vet tomorrow, she thinks he might be tired, but he's not really sleeping. He's 8, we have one that's 7 and one that's 14. I was thinking that possibly the oldest one died or something and he's depressed? I have no idea. Does anyone know what this might be?

    • ANSWER:
      I'm very surprised, and fearful for the cat, that you have waited so long to even think about taking the cat to the vet.

      If this was our cat, we would have taken him to the vet (an emergency after hours vet, if necessary) when we discovered him laying in the middle of the room in a strange position and was non responsive, as yours sounds to be.

      Baring that, we would certainly have taken him to a vet when all he did was lay in the same spot for so long.

      A cat does not lay in the same spot all day unless there is something medically wrong with it.

      Tell your mom that this is not something to wait a day on. He is not just tired.

      Get your cat to a vet as soon as is possible - use an emergency clinic if need be.